Meet The Chef: Chris Bury

 

“The life of a chef is not an easy one, but if it is your calling, there is no better life.” - Paul Bocuse

If you've eaten at The Cartford in the past few years, you've already met Chris Bury — at least by way of your plate. We thought it was time to introduce the man behind the pass a little more formally. So we sat him down, asked a few questions, and let him do the talking.

What is your current role, and what does it involve?
I’m the head chef at The Cartford Inn, and my role is all about bringing the best of Lancashire’s food culture to the plate. From sourcing local ingredients to crafting dishes that celebrate our region, my job is to feed our hungry guests with a taste of localism and seasonality. Day to day, I lead a team of seven talented chefs, many of whom are young, local talent that I’m passionate about nurturing. I’ve moved away from the old-school kitchen mentality — these days, it’s all about creating a collaborative, creative workspace where chefs can thrive. Given the shortage of young chefs entering the industry, fostering that environment is more important than ever.

I’m now approaching my 10th year at The Cartford, and it’s a wonderful challenge to maintain the reputation we’ve built while staying innovative. Creativity is essential; every day I’m developing new ideas for our menu, often driven by the fantastic local suppliers we work with, like Wyreside Mushrooms, Crafty Cheese Man, and Farmyard Ales.

I also get hands-on in our riverside garden. Growing some of our own produce not only keeps us rooted in the seasons, but it also sparks creativity — many of our specials are born from what’s fresh in the garden. It keeps the menu exciting, responsive, and spontaneous.

On top of that, I’m involved in product development for our on-site deli, TOTI (Taste of The Inn). It’s an ever-evolving process of creating and refining our product range, which keeps me on my toes.

How long have you been a chef?
Officially, I started at 16 when I joined culinary college through an apprenticeship scheme. But unofficially? Probably since I was about 11. I used to help my grandad cook for guests at his 17-room guesthouse in Blackpool. Some of my earliest memories involve foraging with him — picking blackberries from the hedgerows, gathering mussels from the beach, and searching for mushrooms in Lancashire’s pastures. You could say I've been immersed in food for as long as I can remember.

How did you first get into cooking?
One of my earliest cooking memories is making coconut macaroons with my great-grandmother. But the moment I truly got hooked was when I was 11. My grandad had me cook dinner for all seven guests staying at his guesthouse — on my own. I’ll never forget that meal: powdered vegetable soup, oven-baked chicken, new potatoes, blanched peas, followed by tinned peaches and ice cream for dessert. It was a crash course in managing a kitchen, and I was thrown in at the deep end, but that experience lit a fire in me. It’s a core memory that showed me what the world of hospitality is really about.

Where did you learn your craft?
I started at 16 through an apprenticeship at culinary college and trained in a local restaurant with a Bib Gourmand. That’s where I learned the basics. After that, I had the chance to do several stagiaires — essentially unpaid internships — at some really prestigious restaurants, which opened my eyes to Michelin-level cuisine. There’s a palpable step-up when you move into that world of gastronomy.

At 18, I took a year to travel and worked as a chef across Asia and Australia. It was an incredible experience, and it proved to me that I could hold my own in any kitchen, with any cuisine. That breadth of experience helped me grow as a chef and gave me a deeper understanding of different cultures, techniques, and clientele.

What is your signature dish?
For me, the perfect dish starts with an outstanding base ingredient, and that’s why I always go local. It has to be the best of what’s available — seasonal, fresh, and full of flavour. My approach to cooking is to layer creativity on top of those impeccable ingredients. A signature dish should always have something unique to it, and for me, that’s my black pudding doughnut.

It’s a Boudin Noire-style black pudding — soft and rich — wrapped in choux pastry and deep-fried. I serve it with a celeriac and apple remoulade and a tarragon mustard Italian meringue. With a surname like Bury, I couldn’t help but be tied to black pudding, and I’ve loved it since I was a teenager. The balance of flavours in this dish really brings it all together — the richness of the black pudding, the tartness of the apple, and the sweetness of the meringue, with the fiery anise note from the mustard. Food critic Jay Rayner once said, “it really shouldn’t work, but it does", which captures exactly what I aim for in my cooking — finding that surprising harmony in unexpected pairings. This dish has become something of a signature at The Cartford, often featuring on our menus.

What has been your worst cooking disaster?
I once spilled boiling hot lamb fat all over my feet while wearing Birkenstocks. Needless to say, it wasn’t a pleasant experience, and I ended up spending three hours in A&E. But believe it or not, I made it back to the kitchen in time for the evening service. It wasn’t the most glamorous moment, but I think it speaks to the dedication that comes with this craft.

What are your culinary ambitions?
One day, I’d love to open a small restaurant somewhere warm, focused on the freshest fish and seafood. That’s the dream — a simple, honest place where I can combine my love of food with some of my favourite hobbies, like fishing, foraging, and sailing. It would be a lifestyle as much as a job, merging work with my personal passions.

How do you achieve a work/life balance?
Cheffing is a demanding career, and it can be hard to maintain structure in terms of days off. But I try to keep my working hours between 45 and 48 a week and remain disciplined about not letting it consume my life. While cheffing is a lifestyle career, it’s important to cap your time and recharge.

For me, getting away and recharging is crucial. I love to travel, and my campervan helps with that — it’s my little escape. I also enjoy fishing, which is the perfect way to switch off entirely. It helps to have a good group of friends outside of hospitality, so I can completely disconnect from work when I’m with them. It’s important to step out of that bubble from time to time.

What do you like to eat?
Freshly grilled seafood with super ripe, seasonal tomatoes and foraged mushrooms — it’s a simple but perfect combination. I’m also partial to a Negroni to wash it all down.

When it comes to comfort food, I could eat wood-fired pizza or tacos every day. But honestly, the greatest pleasure is eating food that someone else has cooked for me, especially in their home. People sometimes get nervous cooking for chefs, but I really love it. There’s something special about being on the other side of the stove for a change.